My first view of Matera appeared as an untidy heap of tan rock buildings and caves that seemed to rise from the earth. As I scanned the city, my eyes searched for a break of greenery and open expanse, but there was very little to be found. What I saw was layers upon layers of history, crowded and jumbled together in chaos. It was unbelievable and a bit discomforting at first.
I have never seen anything like Matera. Located in Basilicata in the most southern part of Italy, it is one of the few places that has been continually inhabited. Stark and bleak, there was little color to give it warmth. And yet, I was drawn to this antiquated city. Matera shows her face without shame. She has been through too much in her long life, dating back 7,000 years from paleolithic times.
As part of the Sassi, a fascinating land of cave dwellings and rock churches and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Matera has recently been awarded the title of European Capital of Culture for 2019. The city will draw many from around the world to discover its diverse history and culture, with the hope of bringing about significant long term economic, cultural and social benefits.
Matera began as a troglodyte society, cave dwellers. During the classical and medieval period, many artists and peasants found their home among these caves and rock buildings. Then in the 1950’s, Matera earned the reputation of being “the shame of Italy” due to the extreme poverty of the people. It was then that the entire population of an estimated 16,000 farmers and peasants were relocated to new government housing nearby, which left Matera an empty shell.
But today Matera is experiencing a rebirth that is truly exciting to see. Extensive restorations are now housing cave hotels, private homes, and restaurants. During my stay here, I enjoyed dining in a charming cave restaurant and even spent a few nights in a cistern that had been refurbished.
Below are some photos of my time spent in Matera. I plan to be back in 2019, to see Matera beautifully adorned and enjoying the recognition she so much deserves.
Church of San Giovanni Battista ~ consecrated in the year 1233
The 18th century Church of the Pergatory
Extraordinary. I had heard of Matera but never got to visit. Definitely putting on my list of places to check out. 😀
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That is so interesting, amazing! The structures have no color, yet so beautiful. Very fascinating history too. This is definitely someplace I would love to visit.
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Hi Rommel, Matera is like no other place i’ve been to. This is where Mel Gibson’s “Passion of the Christ” was filmed. Thanks for stopping by!
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We went to Matera on a public holiday and we could barely move for the crowds…must go back.
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That would be frustrating…we were there when it was very light tourism so we walked all over. The best way to really see a place. I hope you do return
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Matera is a humbling experience. Carlo Levi’s paintings in the Centro Carlo Levi of the contadini and children of Aliano are really moving. He really captures their spirit!
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So fascinating and mysterious. I would love to stay in a cave and enhance the experience 🙂
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Very mysterious…thanks for stopping Ishita
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What an interesting place. I don’t ever remember going there. What a difference a few more trees and potted flowers would make. Something that the Italians usually do so well.
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Susan, How exciting that the city will be rebuilt. I love old things and knowing the Italians it will keep its charm. It is so fun to read your blog and experience Italy through your eyes. Lori
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Thank you Lori:) I believe Matera will keep her basic look, but she will get a make-over which is due her. Anyway, exciting times! You might enjoy reading Carlo Levi’s book, Christ Stopped at Eboli. He chronicles the Matera of the 1940’s…very sad situation.
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I visited Matera in 2000 and found it a wonderful and mysterious place to visit. The regeneration had begun in the 90s,with restoration of the Sassi for hotels and restaurants.
Such a history though, especially during the war, with cholera and typhoid, and children with swollen eyes from trachoma, and malnutrition. I am glad you mentioned this history Susan, as many are inclined to forget how poor the South was.
Lovely photos of a town that I hold dear.
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Thank you Francesca…my heart went out to Matera as I visited it for the first time recently. I just read Carlo Levi’s book and I have to say I had tears in my eyes.
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Ah you read it! That’s great news Susan. I was very taken with this book when I first read it. I mentioned to my Italian Lecturer at the time that I had to visit Matera, and he looked at me dumbfoundedly and said” Why would you want to go there’? That was back in 1992. I hope since then he has woken up to the town’s beauty and mystery.
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I have to say that was my very first thought when I arrived in Matera. I had not read Levi’s book yet, and knew very little about it. But during our stay, it kind of grew on me. I was curious so I read the book. Now I have an entirely different perspective on it. I’m excited and hopeful for the future of Matera
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In learning about Italy through the books we read for our Italian book club, I have been surprised to learn about the poverty in the south. Lori
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Yes, Carlo Levi will open your eyes to it…
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Lori, did you read by chance, ‘Christ stopped at Eboli’ set in Matera in the 1930s?
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